Dining Room Textures

Since the kitchen is finally done, I'd like the dining room to be just as inspiring since it's pretty much the same room now.

When I last checked in on the space it was anything but inspiring.  More like really boring, actually.    



Didn't look that much different from when we first moved in, to be honest.


I finally added a curtain to the single window and used some of the carpet squares that were in the basement and it's starting to come together.


I wanted a deep navy curtain, and actually found these Nate Berkus Linen Curtains from Target, which are black and white, but from a distance appear navy.

I really wanted a brass curtain rod, but was having the hardest time finding one reasonably priced.  I found this one, but it was forever out of stock, (still is!).

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I finally accepted that they wouldn't be restocking in a reasonable time after my emails went unanswered, so I did what any normal person does and bought the silver version and decided to try Rub 'n Buff for the first time.


I used Antique Gold and for a first time user, I thought it went on really easily.  I read a lot of reviews and decided to go with the au natural approach and used my fingers.


The problem is the finish.  It's a little splotchy in some spots after I buffed it.  I went over a couple more times in those spots, but a little of the silver still shows through.


It bothered me at first, but now I'm over it and don't notice it at all.

I've been asked what I plan to do for the windows over the window seat, and I think I'll leave them as is.


The kitchen peninsula ends right next to the window which doesn't leave any room for curtains, and I think anything inside would look weird.  I could use the same bamboo shades as the kitchen, but though it's one large room now, I still want the rooms to read as separate.  It may just be I'm too lazy right now, and when I come up with a plan I could change my mind.

I do know that I want to somehow make a cushion for the seat, even though it would interfere with the bottom of the window since the seat was made as an extension of the sill.  Again, I'll worry about that later!

The other side of the room is also due for some attention.


After months of deliberation, we've finally come up with a plan, and I'll share those later this week. 

How to Shorten Bamboo Shades

We've finally finished up some of the lingering kitchen details, so I hope to take some final reveal photos soon.

One of the items that I couldn't decide on was window treatments.  A lot of my inspiration photos actually didn't have window coverings at all, so I was stumped.  On one hand I like the look of a "naked" window, but I feel it's more effective with black frames.

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Also, while the window and door overlook the deck and backyard and don't necessarily need privacy, the window over the sink looks towards our neighbors house.  Although is mostly blocked by large bushes, it still felt a little too open.

I went back and forth for a long time, the whole time knowing I would probably end up with bamboo shades.  I knew they would work since they are used in kitchens all the time, and they would also bring in some natural texture to the black and white we had going on.

I began searching for the right blinds a couple months ago and wanted to use the same Home Depot brand we used in the upstairs bathroom, since I already knew the coloring would work and they were inexpensive and could be picked up locally.


The problem was the sizing.  I'm assuming it's because our house is so old that the windows are not standard sizing because I couldn't find anything to fit our 23" and 33" windows.  I could have special ordered online, but I wasn't willing to spend $60+ per window.  I set out to make the Home Depot blinds work.

Usually I go to Mike for any "engineering" or manipulating of something, but I was determined to figure it out on my own.  First, I found a 23" size that would work on the back window.

Sorry, I don't have any current photos that show both windows.

Since this wall was built out, the window framing is recessed, which would allow the blinds to be inside mounted.  The problem was the other window, above the sink, was on a regular wall which meant it did not have a thick frame and could not be inside mounted.  It didn't matter anyways, because the closest sizes available were either 31" or 35".  I decided I would mount both blinds outside the frame which meant I could get a couple sizes larger to sit beyond the window openings.  I decided on 27" and 39".

After I figured out my first roadblock, I came upon my next.  Both were only available in 72" lengths.  For the bathroom upstairs, I was able to get a 48" length.  Since these are shorter windows, I was afraid of giant chunk of rolled blinds in the middle of the window.  I figured I could shorten them somehow.  I took pictures along the way, and was prepared to share my success or failure, thankfully I came out on the other side with perfectly shortened shades. 


The first thing I did was lay them out on the counter, I cannot tell you how excited I was to have this amount of counter space to do this!


I took a photo of the bottom ring just so I would have something to reference in case I forgot how to reattach.  I also peeled back the bottom hem to see how they did it.  Simple glue gun for the win.


 
I then gathered my tools: scissors, tape measurer, and glue gun.  Measured the window length.  Measured the shade, twice.  And got to the point of no return by cutting the cord.  I actually used the rings as my basis of measurement.  Since the shades will be up almost always, (we've yet to pull the bathroom shades down after 2 years), I figured this would be the easiest.  I tied the cord to the last ring using the same knot as they had.   


The next step is actually why you're benefiting by me doing this first.  I learned on the first three inches that it's a good idea to glue each piece of thread before cutting.  I just dabbed a little hot glue to each piece, a section or two above where I planned to cut.


As you can see, once cut, the pieces and thread unravel very easily.  Meanwhile on the other, (good), side they're staying strong.


To finish it off, I applied hot glue liberally, and folded up the last four pieces of bamboo, like a hem.  This created a more substantial bottom.


Once hung, the last step is to shorten the pull cord to look nicer on the shorter length.

To mount outside the frame, I had to alter the original hardware directions.  For an inside mount, the bracket sits on the side like this:



Because of the design on this shade, there was no option to mount any other way, but Mike and I are never satisfied with answers like that.  We realized if we moved the bracket 90 degrees it could be mounted to the top of the window frame.


The only downside is it sits further from the frame than an inside mount.  It didn't matter for the window above the sink because it sits between 2 cabinets, but I worried for a second because the little window is open on the side to the back door, and the basement staircase.  In the end I didn't care enough to be bothered by it and we installed it anyways.  I can honestly say now, that I've not thought about it, or noticed it at all.

I quickly took some photos this morning before work, so the lighting isn't the greatest.  Here's the small window to the deck:


You can see from the side that it sticks out far from the window frame.  But, like I said, it's only noticeable looking directly at it which isn't where the eye normally goes when walking up from the basement or coming in from the back door.



Here's a more natural angle which shows it even less.  It actually is a little beneficial in that it allows light to come in from the side which was the only down side from adding a window covering. 


The window above the sink is impossible to see from the side, so no one would ever be able to tell it sits further than normal from the frame.


You can also see my collection of new succulents from Ikea, (the best source I've found around here), that I've yet to figure out what to do with!

With a little modifying, I'm really happy that I was able to get inexpensive shades to fit our non-standard windows.  I was surprised at how much it warms up the space.  Just a couple last minutes touch-ups, (spray painting register covers, touching up the shoe molding), and we'll finally be finished!

Bees and Honey

I mentioned last week that we got new bees a couple weekends ago.


We ordered them from a beekeeping shop about an hour from our house.  The package above is three pounds of Italian honey bees shipped from Georgia.  The package has about 10,000 bees, give or take, and comes with a mated queen.  The metal can inside the package is a syrup can and is used to keep the bees feed during the journey.

The queen does not come from this hive, so she's placed in a separate cage with a couple helper bees with her.  The cage has a screen side, to allow the new hive to interact with her without killing her.  The bees will kill the queen because they don't recognize her.  Pheromones are released and over a couple of days, the new hive will accept her as the queen.  It also comes with candy and a cork for releasing her after the period of time for introduction.  I didn't get a photo of our queen, but I found one online that shows what this little cage looks like.

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The bees are dumped into the hive, see the literal dumping process from last years hive here, and left to acclimate for a couple of days.  After waiting, Mike opened up the hive to release the queen.  You then wait longer so that you pretty much don't piss off the hive while the queen starts laying eggs.  If you do open up the hive and disrupt them, they may blame the queen and kill her off.  Being a queen sounds awesome, but there are so many chances of getting killed, that I think I'd decline!

This is our third time we've had to do this process.  While it's neat, it's frustrating that our bees aren't lasting through the winters.  We started our first hive too late in the season and they were too weak, it also didn't help that our winter was uncharacteristically mild.  The bees like temperatures above 50 degrees, so with the warmer winter days hovering around that temperature, we had very active bees, but not warm enough to get out of the hive.  Not that there would be any food sources available since it was still technically winter.  We learned our lesson and got last years hive going with more than enough time, and ended the season with a very strong hive.  I've mentioned that our winter was extremely long this year, and it was too long for our bees.  We tried all that we could to winterize them, but it wasn't enough.

All this loss made us decide to switch our hive structure.  We were so proud of our homemade Top Bar hive that was our mini house.


But, we felt the design of the Top Bar was inhibiting us from efficiently insulating them for the winter.  Winterizing a hive doesn't just mean keeping it warm, proper ventilation is required as well.  That's why we decided to get a Langstoth hive this year.

 
The Langstroth is obviously more vertical where the Top Bar is horizontal, and there are a lot of advantages to the Langstroth.  Here's a diagram of the parts of the hive:

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I'm not going to explain every part, but the basics are the Deep Super is for brood, (honey bee eggs),  and the Honey Super is obviously for the honey.  Some of the cooler aspects that differ from the Top Bar are the Queen Excluder which is a screen that is too small for the queen to fit through preventing her from laying any eggs in the Honey Super.  This makes honey collection a lot easier since our Top Bar combs had honey, brood, and pollen cells all together.  Also, the ability to add on supers as needed.  We would have to completely remove the combs in the top bar to make more room.

Mike also built a stand for ours which mimicked one we saw at our supplies shop, similar to this one which runs about $90:

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It keeps it higher off the ground, and Mike also added swinging metal arms to allow a place to hang frames while working in the hive.

You may also notice that the hive isn't in the same place as the last one.  As you know, we had to get the garage treated for termites, and this happened a couple days after we got the new hive, so we had to keep the back clear.  You also know that we have plans for the grassless area behind the garage, so we felt we should set up the hive on the side of the yard, while they acclimate, instead of moving them when we were ready to get the stone back there.  We're hoping the weather is cooperative for work this weekend.


Right now, the hive sits next to the hop trellis.


We're excited to finish up behind the garage and get the hive in it's permanent home soon.  Not only so the bees can get acclimated but also so we can get started on the side yard as well.  It's in a very sorry state.


Since we moved in 4 years ago we've focused our attention on getting the interior how we wanted and neglected the exterior.  This summer we're planning to change that!